One Week in Himara: 7-Day Albanian Riviera Itinerary

A week in Himara (Greek: Χειμάρρα, Albanian: Himarë) is the full Albanian Riviera experience. You get the beaches, the boat tours, the old town, and the waterfront dinners — plus the mountain passes, Ottoman stone cities, karst springs, and coastal villages that most visitors never reach because they only booked three days. Seven days lets you go deep without rushing, and the cost of an extra four days on the Riviera is shockingly low.

This itinerary covers every day in detail. The first three days follow a similar structure to our 3-day Himara itinerary — if you've already read that, you'll recognize the highlights. Days four through seven push further: Dhermi and Llogara Pass, a full day to Gjirokaster and the Blue Eye, Borsh Beach and the hill villages, and a final slow day of kayaking, snorkeling, or canyon hiking before a farewell sunset dinner.

What You Need to Know First

• Best time to visit: June and September for warm weather, fewer crowds, and lower prices. July-August is peak season. See our timing guide for specifics.
• Getting around: Rent a car. A week of exploration without one means missing half the coastline. Rates start at ~30€/day. Scooters work for shorter trips at ~20€/day.
• Budget: A mid-range couple spends roughly 1,200€ for the full week — accommodation, meals, activities, transport, everything. That's 8,000-14,000 ALL per day. See our budget guide for breakdowns.
• Cash: Bring lek. Many restaurants and all beach vendors are cash-only. ATMs are in the town center.
• Getting here: Direct buses from Tirana cost 15€ and take 3.5 hours via the Llogara Pass. Full details on our getting here page.

Days 1-3: The Core Himara Experience

The first three days cover the essential highlights within Himara and its immediate surroundings. We've written a detailed day-by-day breakdown for these three days — here's the condensed version.

Day 1: Town Beaches, Old Town, and Sunset Dinner

Start with Spile Beach (Greek: Σπήλια, Albanian: Spile) and the promenade to get oriented. The 500-meter town beach has sunbeds for ~1,000 ALL (10€) and crystal-clear water over soft pebbles. In the afternoon, hike up to Himara Castle on Barbaka hill — 15 minutes up, one of the best views on the Riviera, Byzantine churches with faded frescoes, and stone paths inside 5th-century-BC walls. End with a waterfront dinner on the promenade. A full seafood dinner for two with wine runs 3,000-5,000 ALL (30-50€). Check our restaurant guide for picks.

Day 2: Boat Tour and Beach Hopping

This is the highlight day. A morning boat tour from the main beach — the Pirate's Cave route is the standard (2.5-4 hours, ~30€/person), hitting Pirate's Cave, Blue Cave, and swimming coves you can't reach by land. The full-day Grama Bay option (~60€/person) adds Aquarium Beach and Crystal Bay. After the tour, drive 20 minutes north to Jale Beach (Greek: Γυάλι, Albanian: Plazhi i Jalës) for the afternoon — some of the cleanest water on the Riviera. End with sunset dinner at Livadhi Beach (Greek: Λιβάδι, Albanian: Plazhi i Livadhit), eating fresh fish on the sand with pine trees overhead.

Day 3: Porto Palermo, Hidden Beaches, and Farewell (to the First Act)

Drive 15 minutes south to Porto Palermo Castle (200 ALL / ~2€), Ali Pasha's triangular fortress on a turquoise peninsula. Check the Cold War submarine tunnel carved into the cliff nearby. Then hit Filikuri Beach — a 20-30 minute hike or short boat ride to a hidden cove with pristine snorkeling and almost no one around. Afternoon at Llamani Beach or Akuarium, both within easy reach. Dinner back on the promenade. Full details for each stop in the 3-day itinerary.

Day 4: Dhermi, Drymades, and the Llogara Pass

Today you head north. This is one of the best days of the trip.

Morning: Llogara Pass Drive

Leave Himara by 9 AM and drive 25 minutes up to the Llogara Pass summit at 1,027 meters. The road climbs through pine forest in tight hairpins, then opens to a panorama of the entire Albanian Riviera stretching below. Stop at the summit viewpoint, walk to the flag pines — ancient trees bent horizontal by decades of Ionian wind — and take in the view that Julius Caesar reportedly saw in 48 BC.

Bring a light jacket. The summit is 10-15 degrees cooler than the coast. Read the full Llogara Pass driving guide for viewpoint stops and hiking options.

Late Morning: Mountain Restaurant Lunch

Eat lunch at one of the traditional mountain restaurants clustered near the summit. These family-run spots serve slow-roasted lamb (mish qengji), mountain herbs, fresh bread, and yogurt — highland Albanian cooking that's a world away from the seafood on the coast. Budget 1,500-3,000 ALL (15-30€) per person. Portions are enormous. Sip mountain tea (caj mali) and look at the Ionian Sea from 1,000 meters.

Afternoon: Dhermi and Drymades Beaches

After lunch, continue north down the pass to Dhermi (Greek: Δρυμάδες, Albanian: Dhërmi) (18 km from Himara, 25 minutes). Dhermi has white pebble shores, upscale beach clubs, and the most photogenic water on the coast. It's where Tirana's young professionals spend August weekends — curated music, cocktail menus, higher prices. Drymades, 5 minutes further north, is slightly more relaxed with a mix of beach bars and quieter stretches.

Spend the afternoon swimming and sunbathing. If you want the scene, stay in Dhermi proper. If you want space, head to the northern end of Drymades.

Evening: Drive Back and Dinner

Return over the pass in the golden hour — the south-side viewpoints are at their best in late afternoon light. Back in Himara by 7-8 PM for dinner. Try somewhere in Livadhi or a place you haven't been yet on the promenade.

Day 5: Blue Eye Spring and Gjirokaster Day Trip

The longest day of the week, and one of the most memorable. You're leaving the coast for Albania's interior.

Getting There

Leave Himara by 7:30 AM. Drive south on the SH8 toward Saranda, then turn inland on the SH99. The Blue Eye is roughly 80 km / 1.5 hours from Himara. Gjirokaster is another 20 km beyond. Total driving for the day is 5-6 hours round trip, so the early start matters.

Morning: Blue Eye Spring

The Blue Eye is a karst spring where water surges from deep underground through a limestone shaft, creating a pool of vivid, almost electric blue. The shaft drops over 50 meters and has never been fully measured. Water temperature holds at 10 degrees C year-round. Entry is just 50 ALL (~0.50€).

A short boardwalk through shaded forest leads to the viewing platform. The pool is small — maybe 15 meters across — but the colour and clarity are genuinely striking. Spend 30-45 minutes here. Bring a light layer; the forest canopy keeps it cool.

Midday and Afternoon: Gjirokaster (Greek: Αργυρόκαστρο, Albanian: Gjirokastër)

Continue 20 minutes inland to Gjirokaster, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most distinctive towns in the Balkans. The entire old town is built from grey stone — roofs, walls, streets — earning the nickname "City of Stone."

Start at the castle (400 ALL / ~4€), the second-largest in the Balkans. Inside: a military museum, a captured American spy plane from the Cold War (the propaganda display is unintentionally fascinating), and panoramic views over the Drino Valley to the Greek mountains. Budget an hour.

Then walk down to the 500-year-old Ottoman bazaar. Cobblestone streets, traditional stone houses, cafes in converted Ottoman homes. The Skenduli House and Zekate House are both open for visits and give a window into Ottoman-era life. Eat lunch in the bazaar — grilled meat, byrek, and strong coffee at local prices.

Evening: Return to Himara

Drive back to Himara via the same route, arriving 7-8 PM. Light dinner on the promenade — after mountain lamb on Day 4 and bazaar food today, a simple grilled fish feels right.

For more on combining these destinations, see day trips from Himara.

Day 6: Borsh Beach, Hill Villages, and Olive Groves

Day 6 goes south along the coast to the beaches and villages that most short-stay visitors never reach.

Morning: Borsh Beach

Drive 25 minutes south to Borsh, the longest beach on the Albanian Riviera at 7 km. On a 3-day trip we tell people to skip it — not because it's bad, but because you'd drive past better options. With a full week, Borsh earns its spot. The beach is a mix of sand and fine gravel, the water is shallow and warm, and the sheer length means you'll always find space, even in August when every other beach is packed.

A handful of beach bars line the southern end, but most of the beach is undeveloped. Olive groves climb the hills behind the shore. Bring a book and settle in for a slow morning.

See the Borsh Beach guide for details on access points and facilities.

Midday: Qeparo Village

From Borsh, drive 15 minutes north to Qeparo, a small hill village perched above the coast. There are two parts: Lower Qeparo (new, by the beach) and Upper Qeparo (old, on the hillside). You want Upper Qeparo. Stone houses, narrow lanes, a few Byzantine churches, and views down to the Ionian that rival anything from Himara's castle. The village is quiet — you might be the only visitor — and walking the streets takes 30-45 minutes.

Afternoon: Vuno Village

Continue north to Vuno (Greek: Βουνό, Albanian: Vuno), another stone village clinging to the mountainside above the coast. Vuno is slightly larger than Qeparo and sits directly above Jale Beach, giving it one of the most dramatic settings of any village on the Riviera. Cobblestone paths wind between Ottoman-era houses, and a couple of small cafes serve coffee and raki on terraces overlooking the sea.

The walk through old Vuno takes about 30 minutes. The olive groves surrounding both villages have been cultivated for centuries — you'll see ancient gnarled trees and stone retaining walls built by hand over generations.

For detailed village guides, see Vuno and Qeparo villages.

Evening: Dinner in Himara

Back in Himara for your second-to-last dinner. By now you know the promenade restaurants well. Try somewhere you've been eyeing, or return to your favourite. Check our restaurant directory or nightlife guide to close out the evening.

Day 7: Slow Day — Kayaking, Snorkeling, or Canyon Hike

Your last day. No driving marathons, no itinerary cramming. Pick one activity and let the rest happen.

Option A: Kayaking and Snorkeling at Filikuri

Rent a kayak from the main beach or Livadhi and paddle south to Filikuri Beach — the hidden cove you hiked to on Day 3. Approaching by kayak is a different experience: you hug the cliffs, peer into sea caves, and arrive at the cove from the water. Bring a snorkel. Filikuri's underwater visibility is the best near Himara, with colourful fish around the rocky edges. Spend 2-3 hours on the water and at the beach.

See our snorkeling and diving guide for gear rental spots and the best underwater sites.

Option B: Gjipe Canyon Hike

If you skipped Gjipe earlier in the week, today is the day. Park at the trailhead (300 ALL / ~3€ parking), hike 30 minutes down through the limestone canyon to the beach at its mouth. The canyon narrows are the best part — sheer walls closing in, then opening to turquoise water. Swim, explore the sea caves at low tide, and hike back in the late afternoon when it's cooler.

Full access options and trail details in the Gjipe Beach guide and hiking trails guide.

Option C: Beach and Nothing

If you've been moving all week, just pick a beach and stop. Livadhi for pine-backed relaxation, Llamani for deep turquoise seclusion, or Spile for one last morning on the promenade where you started.

Evening: Farewell Sunset Dinner

End the week properly. Pick a restaurant with a sunset view — Livadhi Beach restaurants face west and catch the full show. Order the grilled fish of the day, a bottle of Albanian wine, and watch the sun drop into the Ionian. After dinner, walk the promenade one last time. If you're in the mood, a final drink at one of the rooftop bars above the waterfront.

Itinerary at a Glance

What to Skip

Even with a full week, not everything is worth your time:

• Butrint — Albania's best archaeological site, but 1.5 hours south via Saranda. With Gjirokaster already taking a full day, adding Butrint means another long drive day. It's better based from Saranda or Ksamil. Save it for a separate trip.
• Ksamil beaches — Beautiful, but 1.5+ hours away and packed in summer. You have enough beaches closer to Himara.
• Organized group tours — With a rental car and this itinerary, you don't need them. The only tour worth booking is the boat tour on Day 2.
• Saranda as a day trip — It's a city, not a destination. Unless you need specific services, there's no reason to spend a day there when the Riviera's best spots are north and south of Himara.

Practical Tips

• Water shoes: Pack them. Most beaches are pebble or mixed rock.
• Sunscreen: The Ionian sun is brutal. Reapply after every swim.
• Car rental: Book in advance during July-August. A week rental from a Himara agency runs ~30€/day, often cheaper for multi-day bookings.
• Cash: Always carry lek. Cards work at hotels and some restaurants but not at beaches, parking, small shops, or village cafes.
• Parking at Gjipe: Pay the 300 ALL fee at the designated lot. The dirt road to the beach requires a proper 4x4 — don't attempt it in a standard rental.
• Day 5 fuel: Fill up before the Gjirokaster trip. There are fuel stops along the route, but don't count on finding one exactly when you need it.
• Offline maps: Download Google Maps or Maps.me offline data for the region. Cell service is patchy at Llogara Pass, on the road to Gjirokaster, and at remote beaches.
• Pacing: Days 4 and 5 are active. Days 6 and 7 are deliberately slower. Don't rearrange this — the wind-down matters.

For full practical details, see our practical info and accommodation guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is 7 days too long for Himara?

No. Three days covers the core highlights, but a week lets you explore the mountain passes, interior day trips, hill villages, and quieter beaches that most visitors miss entirely. You won't run out of things to do, and the pace is relaxed enough that it still feels like a vacation, not a checklist.

What's the total budget for one week in Himara?

A mid-range couple spending on a comfortable hotel, restaurant meals, a boat tour, car rental, and entrance fees should budget roughly 1,200€ for the full week. That breaks down to about 8,000-14,000 ALL per day. Himara is significantly cheaper than the Greek islands or Croatian coast for a comparable experience.

Do I need a car for the full 7 days?

You need a car for Days 4, 5, and 6 at minimum. Days 1-3 are manageable without one (boat tours handle the remote beaches, and the town is walkable), but having a car makes everything easier. Rent for the full week — the per-day rate drops, and you'll use it every day.

Can I do this itinerary without a car?

Partially. Days 1-3 work with boat taxis and walking. Day 4 requires transport to Llogara and Dhermi — a scooter (~20€/day) works. Day 5 to Gjirokaster is difficult without a car; you'd need to arrange a private driver or join a tour. Days 6-7 are easier with a scooter or taxi. Overall, a car makes this itinerary dramatically better.

What if I only have 5 days?

Drop Days 6 and 7. The first five days cover the core Himara beaches, boat tour, old town, Llogara Pass, Dhermi, Blue Eye, and Gjirokaster — the highest-impact experiences. With 5 days, you still see more than 90% of the Riviera's highlights. For even shorter stays, see the 3-day itinerary.

What's the best time of year for a week in Himara?

June and September are ideal. Warm weather, swimmable sea temperatures, manageable crowds, and lower prices. July-August is peak season — hotter, busier, more expensive, but everything is open. May and October are possible for the cultural days (Gjirokaster, villages) but some beach facilities will be closed and the water is cooler. Full analysis in our best time to visit guide.

Is the Gjirokaster day trip worth the long drive?

Absolutely. Gjirokaster is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most atmospheric towns in the Balkans. Combined with the Blue Eye Spring on the way, it's a full day that shows you a completely different side of Albania — Ottoman stone architecture, mountain valleys, and a massive hilltop castle. The 5-6 hours of driving is the trade-off, but the route through the Muzina Pass is scenic, and both stops deliver.

What should I do if the weather is bad on one of the beach days?

Swap it with Day 5 (Gjirokaster and Blue Eye). The interior trip works in overcast or light rain — you're mostly in a car, a shaded forest, and a stone city. Save the beach days for sunshine. If you have multiple rainy days, Himara's promenade cafes and restaurants are perfectly pleasant for a slower day.