Hidden inside the rocky cliffs at the northern end of Porto Palermo Bay lies one of the Albanian Riviera's strangest relics — a 650-meter submarine tunnel carved straight through the peninsula during the Cold War. Built to shelter four seized Soviet Whiskey-class submarines, the Porto Palermo submarine tunnel is a monument to Enver Hoxha's paranoia and Albania's extraordinary isolation during the second half of the 20th century.
You cannot go inside — the tunnel remains a military restricted zone — but you can see it from the coastal road and from boat tours that pass through Porto Palermo Bay. Combined with a visit to the nearby Porto Palermo Castle, this is one of the most historically dense stops on the entire Albanian Riviera.
Quick Facts
| Detail | Info |
|---|---|
| Location | Northern end of Porto Palermo Bay |
| Built | 1969–1988 |
| Length | ~650 meters (coast to coast) |
| Height | ~12 meters |
| Purpose | Shelter for 4 submarines + fast attack vessels |
| Submarines housed | Soviet Whiskey-class (seized in 1961) |
| Can you enter? | No — military restricted zone |
| How to see it | Coastal road viewpoint or boat tour |
| Distance from Himara | ~10 km south (15–20 min drive) |
The Story: How Albania Got Soviet Submarines
The Soviet-Albanian Alliance (1950s)
After World War II, Albania aligned with the Soviet Union. The Soviets established their only Mediterranean naval base at Pasha Liman (near Orikum, Greek: Ωρικός, Albanian: Orikum) on Vlora Bay, roughly 60 km north of Porto Palermo. Twelve Soviet Whiskey-class submarines operated from this base — giving the Soviet Navy a crucial foothold in the Mediterranean during the early Cold War.
The Vlora Incident (1961)
By the late 1950s, Albania's communist leader Enver Hoxha had grown increasingly suspicious of Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev's de-Stalinization reforms. When Albania formally broke with the Soviet Union in 1961, things escalated quickly. The Albanian People's Army blockaded the Pasha Liman base in what became known as the Vlora Incident (March–June 1961).
The result: Albania seized four of the twelve Whiskey-class submarines, along with smaller craft, weapons, and equipment. Soviet ships departed by May 26, 1961. The last Soviet naval personnel left Albania on June 5, 1961.
Albania suddenly had four submarines — and no alliance to protect it.
Building the Tunnel (1969–1988)
Hoxha, now convinced that invasion could come from NATO, the Soviet Union, Yugoslavia, or China, launched an extraordinary fortification campaign. Among the most ambitious projects was the Porto Palermo submarine tunnel.
With initial Chinese assistance (China briefly became Albania's new patron after the Soviet split), construction began in 1969. When China withdrew from the project in the 1970s, Albania completed the tunnel alone — finally finishing in 1988, at enormous cost to one of Europe's poorest countries.
The tunnel was designed as a through-passage: submarines could enter from one side of the peninsula and exit from the other, making it nearly impossible to trap them inside during an attack. The 650-meter tunnel, approximately 12 meters high, provided space for all four Whiskey-class submarines plus several fast attack vessels, with maintenance and repair facilities inside the mountain.
Abandonment (1990s)
With the fall of communism in 1991, Albania's military infrastructure became obsolete almost overnight. The submarines were decommissioned, and the tunnel was abandoned. Today, the facility sits disused — a concrete monument to Cold War paranoia carved into some of the most beautiful coastline in the Mediterranean.
How to See the Submarine Tunnel
From the Coastal Road
Driving south from Himara on SH8, you will pass Porto Palermo Bay about 10 km from town (15–20 minutes). From the road on the northern side of the bay, you can clearly see the tunnel entrance carved into the rocky cliff face, along with abandoned military barracks and infrastructure on the hillside.
The Porto Palermo Castle turnoff is nearby — the castle sits on the peninsula directly across the bay from the tunnel.
By Boat Tour
The best views come from the water. Several boat tour operators from Himara include Porto Palermo Bay on their routes. From the sea, you can get relatively close to the tunnel entrance and see the scale of the engineering — a massive dark opening in the cliff, wide and tall enough for a submarine to pass through.
| Viewing Method | What You See | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Coastal road | Tunnel entrance, barracks, hillside infrastructure | Free |
| Boat tour from Himara | Close-up of tunnel entrance from sea level | ~30–60€ depending on tour |
| Porto Palermo Castle | Distant view across the bay | 300 ALL (~3€) castle entry |
Can You Go Inside?
No. The tunnel remains officially classified as a military restricted zone. Some urban exploration blogs report sneaking in, but this is illegal and dangerous — the structure is deteriorating, unlit, and partially flooded. The Albanian military occasionally patrols the area.
There has been talk for years about opening the tunnel as a tourist attraction or museum, similar to what Tirana did with the Bunk'Art museums. As of 2026, no official plans have materialized.
Porto Palermo: Castle + Tunnel in One Visit
The most efficient way to experience Porto Palermo is to combine the submarine tunnel viewpoint with a visit to Porto Palermo Castle — Ali Pasha's triangular 1804 fortress on the peninsula across the bay.
Suggested itinerary:
- Drive south from Himara on SH8 (~15 min)
- Stop at the northern bay viewpoint to photograph the submarine tunnel entrance
- Continue to Porto Palermo Castle (300 ALL / ~3€ entry)
- Swim in the bay — the water off the castle peninsula is some of the clearest on the Riviera
- Total time: 1.5–2 hours
The Bigger Picture: Albania's Bunkerization
The submarine tunnel is the most dramatic example, but it was just one piece of Enver Hoxha's nationwide fortification obsession. Between 1967 and 1986, Albania built an estimated 175,000+ concrete bunkers across the country — roughly 5.7 per square kilometer. The program consumed up to 20% of Albania's GDP during peak construction years.
For more on the bunkers you will see scattered across the Albanian Riviera's beaches, hillsides, and roadsides, see our complete guide to communist bunkers on the Albanian Riviera.
Context: Cold War Sites on the Albanian Riviera
Porto Palermo's submarine tunnel is not the only Cold War relic you will encounter on the Albanian Riviera. The coast is dotted with military infrastructure from Hoxha's era:
- Concrete bunkers — Mushroom-shaped QZ bunkers appear on beaches, hillsides, and roadsides from Vlora to Saranda. See our bunkers guide
- Saint Theodore Monastery — Between Dhermi and Gjipe, this 14th-century monastery served as a Soviet navy holiday resort (1952–1961) then an Albanian military post
- Pasha Liman Base — The original Soviet submarine base near Orikum on Vlora Bay, where the Whiskey-class submarines were first stationed
- Military observation posts — Various hilltop monasteries and castles were repurposed as army lookout points during the communist era
FAQ
Can you visit the Porto Palermo submarine tunnel?
You cannot enter the tunnel — it remains a military restricted zone. However, you can see the entrance from the coastal road SH8 (free) or from boat tours departing Himara (30–60€). The road viewpoint gives a clear view of the tunnel opening and abandoned barracks.
How big is the submarine tunnel?
The tunnel is approximately 650 meters long, carved entirely through the peninsula from one coast to the other. It stands roughly 12 meters high — tall enough for a Whiskey-class submarine to pass through. It housed four submarines plus several fast attack craft.
Why did Albania have Soviet submarines?
Albania seized four Whiskey-class submarines from the Soviet navy during the Vlora Incident of 1961, when Albania broke with the Soviet Union and blockaded the Pasha Liman base. The tunnel was then built between 1969 and 1988 to protect these submarines from potential attack.
Will the tunnel ever open to tourists?
There has been periodic discussion about converting the tunnel into a museum, similar to Tirana's Bunk'Art attractions. As of 2026, no official plans have been announced. The military restricted designation remains in place.
How do I combine the tunnel with Porto Palermo Castle?
Both are at the same bay, about 10 km south of Himara. Stop at the northern viewpoint for tunnel photos, then drive to the castle on the peninsula (300 ALL / ~3€ entry). Budget 1.5–2 hours total. Swimming in the bay is excellent.
