Tepelena & Benja Hot Springs Day Trip from Himara

The Benja thermal baths from Himara make one of the most rewarding inland day trips on the Albanian Riviera. You trade turquoise sea for turquoise river, coastal cliffs for canyon walls, and salt water for natural hot sulfur springs. The Benja pools (Albanian: Llixhat e Bënjës) sit on the Lengarica River just outside Përmet, where thermal water at 30-32 degrees Celsius rises from the earth and mixes with cold mountain river water under an Ottoman stone bridge. Add a fortress stop in Tepelenë (Greek: Τεπελένι) and a lunch in Përmet (Greek: Πρεμετή), and you have a day trip that is completely unlike anything on the coast.

This guide covers the driving route, suggested schedule, what each stop involves, and everything you need to know before going.

Quick Facts

The Route: Himara to Tepelenë to Benja

The drive from Himara to the Benja hot springs is not short, but it is spectacular. You leave the coast entirely, cross the mountains into the interior, and arrive in a different Albania — broader valleys, drier hills, river gorges, and the kind of emptiness that makes you understand how rural most of the country still is.

Himara to Tepelenë (~80 km, 1.5-2 hours)

Head south from Himara on the SH8 coastal road toward Sarandë, then turn inland at the junction toward Gjirokastër. This is the same road you would take for a Gjirokastër day trip. The road climbs through the Muzina Pass with hairpin turns and wide valley views, then descends into the Drino Valley. At the junction before Gjirokastër, take the turn north toward Tepelenë instead of continuing east into the city.

The road from the Gjirokastër junction to Tepelenë runs along the Drino River valley. It is flat, well-paved, and fast. Tepelenë sits at the confluence of the Vjosa and Drino rivers — you will see both rivers merging as you approach the town.

Tepelenë to Benja (~50 km, 45 minutes-1 hour)

From Tepelenë, continue north along the Vjosa River toward Përmet. The road follows the river through a dramatic gorge, especially the stretch between Këlcyrë and Përmet. The Benja thermal baths are signed on the left side of the road roughly 7 km before you reach Përmet center. You will see the old stone bridge from the road.

Road conditions: The entire route is paved. The mountain section between Himara and the Drino Valley has tight curves but is well-maintained. Fuel up before leaving Himara — there are stations in Tepelenë and Përmet, but nothing in between on the mountain stretch.

Suggested Day-Trip Schedule

This schedule is tight but realistic. If you skip Tepelenë, you gain an extra hour at the springs. If you are a slow driver on mountain roads, add 30 minutes to each transit leg.

Tepelenë: Ali Pasha's Fortress

Tepelenë (Albanian: Tepelenë, Greek: Τεπελένι) is a small town with outsized historical weight. This was the seat of Ali Pasha Tepelena, the Ottoman-era Albanian ruler who controlled much of southern Albania and northwestern Greece in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Lord Byron visited in 1809 and described Ali Pasha's court in detail in Childe Harold's Pilgrimage.

The fortress sits on a bluff above the river confluence, and while much of the interior is ruined or repurposed, the walls and the position are impressive. Walk the outer walls for views of the Vjosa and Drino rivers meeting below. The town itself is quiet and functional — not a tourist destination, which is part of the appeal. There is a small museum inside the fortress grounds with exhibits on Ali Pasha's rule and the region's history.

Time needed: 30-45 minutes is enough to walk the walls, see the views, and get a coffee in town. Do not skip the river confluence viewpoint — it is the most memorable part of the stop.

Cost: Free entry to the fortress grounds.

Benja Thermal Baths: What to Expect

The Benja thermal baths are the reason for this trip. Natural hot sulfur springs emerge from the riverbed and from the canyon walls along a stretch of the Lengarica River, creating a series of pools where thermal water mixes with cold river water. The whole setting — a narrow canyon with vertical rock walls, crystal-clear turquoise river water mixing with milky white thermal water, and a 200-year-old Ottoman stone bridge arching overhead — is one of the most photogenic spots in Albania.

Kadiu's Bridge (Ura e Kadiut)

The stone bridge is the landmark. It is an Ottoman-era single-arch bridge that spans the Lengarica River at the entrance to the canyon. Most photos of Benja show this bridge with the turquoise water below it. The thermal pools are immediately around and downstream of the bridge.

The Pools

There are multiple bathing spots of varying temperatures:

• Directly under the bridge: The hottest water, where thermal springs emerge from the rock. Water temperature is 30-32 degrees Celsius year-round. The bottom is smooth rock and sand.
• Downstream pools: Further from the source, the hot water mixes with cold river water. These pools range from warm to lukewarm — you can find your preferred temperature by moving between them.
• Upstream in the canyon: If you walk upstream past the bridge into the Lengarica Canyon, you reach pools that are primarily cold river water with a stunning setting. The canyon narrows dramatically and the walls rise 30-40 meters on both sides. This section is worth exploring even if you do not swim.

The water smells of sulfur. This is normal and harmless — it is the same compound that gives all natural thermal springs their distinctive smell. The sulfur content is mild here compared to many European thermal baths. Your swimsuit may smell faintly of sulfur afterward; a normal wash removes it.

Facilities

Be realistic about what you will find:

• No entrance fee. Access is completely free.
• No changing rooms in the traditional sense. Some visitors change behind rocks or bring a towel wrap. On busy days, a temporary vendor may set up a basic changing tent.
• No toilets at the springs. The nearest facilities are in Përmet.
• No lifeguard. The water is shallow in most pools, but supervise children near the deeper river sections.
• Small vendor stalls sometimes operate near the bridge in summer, selling water, snacks, and corn on the cob. Do not rely on this — bring your own supplies.

What to Bring

• Towel (there is nowhere to rent one)
• Water shoes or sandals with grip (the riverbed is rocky in places)
• Swimsuit
• Sunscreen (the canyon reflects light and you burn fast)
• 1-2 liters of drinking water per person
• Snacks if you want to eat at the springs
• A dry bag or plastic bag for your phone and valuables

When to Go

Weekdays are dramatically quieter than weekends. On a Saturday or Sunday in July and August, the Benja pools can be packed with Albanian families who drive up from Përmet, Gjirokastër, and even Tirana. Weekdays — especially Tuesday through Thursday — you may have the pools nearly to yourself.

Morning is the best time for light. The canyon faces roughly east-west, so the turquoise water catches sunlight in the late morning. By early afternoon, parts of the canyon are in shadow.

Season: The springs flow year-round at the same temperature. Summer is the most popular season, but spring (April-May) and early autumn (September-October) are arguably better — fewer crowds, comfortable air temperature, and the thermal water feels even more appealing when the air is cool.

Lunch in Përmet

Përmet is a proper Albanian town with genuine local culture, not a tourist creation. It is famous across Albania for three things: gliko (spoon sweets — fruit preserved in sugar syrup, served as a hospitality gesture), raki (grape brandy, distilled locally), and thermal springs.

For lunch, head to Antigonea restaurant in the center of Përmet. It serves traditional Albanian food with local ingredients — grilled lamb, river trout, peppers stuffed with cheese, pies, and salads. Portions are generous and prices are low by any European standard. A full lunch for two with drinks runs 2,000-3,000 ALL (20-30 EUR).

If Antigonea is full or closed, walk the main pedestrian street. Several small restaurants serve similar food at similar prices. Look for places where locals are eating — that is the reliable filter everywhere in Albania.

Do not skip the gliko. Përmet's spoon sweets are made from walnuts, figs, cherries, sour cherries, quince, and watermelon rind, among other fruits. Many restaurants offer them for free with your coffee. If you want to bring some home, small jars are sold in shops along the main road for 300-500 ALL (3-5 EUR).

Transport Options

Rental Car (Best Option)

A rental car is the only practical way to do this day trip comfortably. The route involves mountain roads, multiple stops in different towns, and no public transport connection between them. Daily rental rates in Himara run 3,000-5,000 ALL (30-50 EUR) in summer. Budget an additional 2,000-2,500 ALL (20-25 EUR) for fuel for the round trip.

If you are not comfortable with mountain driving, note that the hardest section is the 30-km stretch between the coast and the Drino Valley — tight switchbacks with steep drops, though the road surface is good and there are guardrails. The rest of the route is valley road.

Taxi

A taxi from Himara for the full day (Tepelenë, Benja, Përmet, and return) will cost approximately 10,000-12,000 ALL (100-120 EUR) round trip. Negotiate the price and full itinerary before departure. Not every driver will agree to this route — it is a long day for them too. The upside is that you avoid driving the mountain section yourself and can relax on the return.

Public Transport

There is no direct public transport from Himara to Benja or Përmet. You could theoretically piece together a furgon to Gjirokastër, another to Tepelenë, and a third to Përmet, but this would consume most of the day in transit and leave almost no time at the springs. It is not a realistic option for a day trip. For general transport info around Himara, see our guide.

Combining with Gjirokastër

The route to Benja passes through the Gjirokastër junction. If you have the stamina for a very long day, you could add a Gjirokastër stop on the return leg — turn east at the junction instead of south toward the coast, spend 1.5-2 hours in the UNESCO old town and castle, then continue back to Himara.

Be honest about energy levels before committing to this. Gjirokastër's old town involves steep cobblestone streets and a castle hill, which is demanding after a full day of driving and soaking. A better strategy for most travelers is to keep Gjirokastër as a separate day trip and give the thermal baths their full day.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to drive from Himara to Benja hot springs?

The drive is approximately 130 km and takes 2.5-3 hours depending on your speed through the mountain section. The road is fully paved but includes switchbacks between the coast and the Drino Valley.

Are the Benja thermal baths free?

Yes. There is no entrance fee and no ticket booth. The springs are on public land along the Lengarica River. Access is open year-round.

What temperature is the water at Benja?

The thermal springs emerge at 30-32 degrees Celsius. Where the hot water mixes with the cold Lengarica River, pool temperatures vary — you can find anything from body temperature down to cold river water by moving between pools.

Is there an entrance fee for Tepelenë fortress?

No. The fortress grounds are open to visitors at no charge. There is a small museum inside with occasional opening hours — if it is closed, the exterior walls and river views are the main draw.

Can I visit Benja hot springs without a car?

Not practically as a day trip from Himara. There is no direct bus or furgon connection. A taxi is possible but expensive at around 10,000-12,000 ALL (100-120 EUR) for the round trip. If you do not want to rent a car, consider booking a private transfer or finding other travelers to split the cost.

Is the Lengarica Canyon worth exploring beyond the thermal pools?

Yes. Walking upstream from Kadiu's Bridge into the canyon takes you through increasingly narrow rock walls with turquoise pools. You can explore for 20-30 minutes on foot. Wear water shoes — you will be walking through shallow water over rocks.

What is the best time of year to visit Benja?

The thermal springs flow year-round at the same temperature, so any season works. Summer (June-August) is the busiest. Spring and early autumn offer warm enough air temperatures for comfortable soaking with far fewer visitors. Winter visits are possible — the contrast between cold air and warm water is striking — but the drive from Himara can be affected by weather in the mountain section.