Himarë · Albania

PIZZA NAPOLI

Two words in blue neon on a wall of wide blue and white stripes, in the middle of Himarë. A covered terrace under a pine ceiling, and pizza brought out on a wooden board.

The covered terrace: a pine-boarded ceiling, bulbs hung on knotted rope, a back wall painted in wide blue and white stripes with the name across it in blue neon, and yellow and grey chairs at dark tables

Three things you can see from the pavement

01

The wall

Blue and white, floor to ceiling, at the width of a beach awning. The name runs across the middle of it in neon.

02

The ceiling

Pine boards, and bulbs hung on knotted rope over yellow chairs and dark tables. The terrace is covered and open to the street.

03

The counter

Trays under glass and flat boxes stacked open beside them. Sit down at a table, or carry it out.

A round pizza on a wooden board at the counter: cheese under salami, its raised rim flour-dusted and spotted dark where it caught the heat, with trays and open flat boxes on the counter behind

On the board

Round, with flour still on the rim

It comes out on a wooden board with the rim risen and flour still on it, flecked dark where the edge caught the heat. There are trays of it on the counter too, for anyone who wants a piece rather than a whole one.

Inside the room

Where it stands

In the middle of the town

Himarë sits between the Ceraunian mountains and the Ionian, and the SH8 runs the length of it. The terrace is on that road, in the centre, a few streets up from the water — close enough that a walk down to Spile, the town beach is a few minutes either side of lunch.

Coming from further afield, the guide to getting to Himarë covers the roads and the buses in.

Finding it
Himarë from above — the town beach, the pier and the promenade below the hillside, and the mountains behind. The town the pizzeria stands in, not the pizzeria

Himarë from above — the town beach, the pier and the promenade below the hillside, and the mountains behind. The town the pizzeria stands in, not the pizzeria