Himarë · Albania
PIZZA NAPOLI
Two words in blue neon on a wall of wide blue and white stripes, in the middle of Himarë. A covered terrace under a pine ceiling, and pizza brought out on a wooden board.

Three things you can see from the pavement
01
The wall
Blue and white, floor to ceiling, at the width of a beach awning. The name runs across the middle of it in neon.
02
The ceiling
Pine boards, and bulbs hung on knotted rope over yellow chairs and dark tables. The terrace is covered and open to the street.
03
The counter
Trays under glass and flat boxes stacked open beside them. Sit down at a table, or carry it out.

On the board
Round, with flour still on the rim
It comes out on a wooden board with the rim risen and flour still on it, flecked dark where the edge caught the heat. There are trays of it on the counter too, for anyone who wants a piece rather than a whole one.
Inside the roomWhere it stands
In the middle of the town
Himarë sits between the Ceraunian mountains and the Ionian, and the SH8 runs the length of it. The terrace is on that road, in the centre, a few streets up from the water — close enough that a walk down to Spile, the town beach is a few minutes either side of lunch.
Coming from further afield, the guide to getting to Himarë covers the roads and the buses in.
Finding it
Himarë from above — the town beach, the pier and the promenade below the hillside, and the mountains behind. The town the pizzeria stands in, not the pizzeria