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Arxontiko · Spile, Himarë

A marble box with a wall that leaves

Marble walls, a banquette in orange, burgundy, mustard and teal, and a black-framed glass front that folds flat onto the Himarë promenade in summer.

The restaurant's folding glass front opened onto a timber deck, with the bay and headland beyond

A marble box

White marble lines the dining room wall, with bulbs hung on rope cords and the glasses racked above the black counter. It is a cold, bright room, and in Himarë in August that is the point.

A marble-walled dining room with wooden tables, rope-hung bulbs and glassware racked above a dark counter

The loud banquette

Along one wall the seating runs orange, burgundy, mustard and teal in a row, under a gold-framed painting of rocks and shallow water. It is the loudest thing in a room otherwise made of marble, timber and glass, and the whole site takes its colour from here.

Laid tables in front of a banquette upholstered in orange, burgundy and mustard, beneath a gold-framed painting of rocks in shallow water

A wall that leaves

The street elevation is black-framed folding glass. In summer it concertinas flat and the room opens straight onto the deck, the road and the bay behind it. There is no threshold to speak of once it is open.

The restaurant's folding glass front opened onto a timber deck, with the bay and headland beyond

Upstairs

The four floors above this room are ARXONTIKO, the family hotel the restaurant belongs to. Guests come down for breakfast; everyone else walks in off the promenade. Rooms, rates and availability are on the hotel’s own site.

The room, photographed

Rruga Jorgji Bollano, Spile, Himarë